Some Fun with Antiquated Hat Terms - Part 1 Ancient Greece through Medieval European Helmets
Some obscure and unusual words come to light while looking back at the history of headgear. Having recently finished reading THE PROFESSOR AND THE MADMAN (by Simon Winchester, HarperCollins 1998) about the making of the Oxford English Dictionary, I thought it might be fun to explore the definitions and etymology of some of these ancient terms, most of which have all but disappeared from modern use. [I ll breakup this project into three or four parts, so stay tuned.]
To qualify for inclusion below, the word must show up with a squiggly red line at Microsoft Word s spell check tool. So here goes:
Petasus
Forms: 15- petasus, 18- petasos.
[< classical Latin petasus broad-brimmed hat worn by travellers and by the god Mercury (or Hermes), and its etymon Hellenistic Greek < ancient Greek to spread out (see PETAL n.) + - , suffix forming nouns. Cf. Middle French petasus (1579; French p tase).]
A low-crowned broad-brimmed
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1577 J. GRANGE Golden Aphroditis 89 Mercurie that craftie theeuish & iugling god with a Petasus on his head & a Caduceus at his side. 1601 B. JONSON Fountaine of Selfe-love V. vii. 47 A Petasus, or Mercuriall Hat. 1601 B. JONSON in R. Chester Loves Martyr 178 Though he would steale his sisters Pegasus, And rifle him; or pawne his Petasus. 1636 King & Queenes Entert. Richmond (1903) sig. C 1, From thence comes forth a Captaine attired in
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Tutulus
Arch ol.
[L. tutulus.]
A Roman head-dress formed by plaiting the hair in a cone above the forehead, worn esp. by the Flamen and his wife.
1753 CHAMBERS Cycl. Supp., Tutulus, among the Romans, a manner of dressing the hair, by gathering it up on the forehead into the form of a tower… Tutulus likewise signified a woollen cap with a high top. 1816 J. DALLAWAY Statuary & Sculpt. vi. 321 The head-dress is that of the wife of a pontifex,..the tutulus or top of the hair is rolled with a
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Pileus
[< classical Latin p leus, variant of pilleus felt cap (also p leum, pilleum, neuter), of unknown origin. Cf. ancient Greek felt, felt cap. It is not clear whether the masculine or the neuter represents the original form of the Latin word. Forms with pill- are recorded in inscriptions and early MSS. Forms with p l- may show the influence of ancient Greek (which may also have prompted the masculine form in Latin), though both words are of unknown origin and may be loan words.]
1. Classical Hist. A felt cap without a brim. Also in extended use.
Freq. identified with the cap of liberty (see cap n.1 4g) given to Roman slaves on emancipation, and hence sometimes adopted as a symbol of liberty.
1663 E. WATERHOUSE Fortescutus Illustratus 568 The reason why Homer makes no mention of Pileus, nor any of the antient Statues are seen other then bare headed. 1737 G. ENGLAND Enq. Morals Ancients 262 A Cap of Liberty on his Head, such as the Slaves who were made free
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2. Mycol. The
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1760 J. LEE Introd. Bot. II. xxxi. 151 Agaricus, with the Pileus on a Stipes. 1821 W. J. HOOKER Flora Scotica II. 22 Pileus deep buff, bluntly conical. 1875 A. W. BENNETT & W. T. T. DYER tr. J. von Sachs Text-bk. Bot. 249 The naked pilei are originally gymnocarpous. 1911 H. G. WELLS Country of Blind xvii. 249 The purple pileus caught his eye… Then he saw that it was the purple top of a fungus. 1997 Amer. Jrnl. Bot. 84 981 Two fruiting bodies of Archaeomarasmius were found. One consists of a complete pileus with stipe.
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1890 Cent. Dict., Pileus, in ornith., same as pileum.
Wimple
[Late OE. wimpel = (M)LG., (M)Du. wimpel, OHG. wimpal veil, banner (MHG., G. wimpel streamer, pennon), ON. vimpill (Sw., Da. vimpel from LG.), whence OF. guimple (mod. F. guimpe), of which the variant wimple coincided with the native form. Ultimate origin uncertain.
It is doubtful whether the senses provisionally placed together here and under the vb. belong all to the same word. In branch II there may be an onomatop ic element; for formation and meaning cf. dimple, rimple, rumple, wrimple.]
I. 1. A garment of linen or silk formerly worn by women, so folded as to envelop the head, chin,
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Used loosely in early glossaries as a rendering of L. anabola, cyclas, peplum, ricinum.
a1100 Aldhelm Gloss. I. 4296 (Napier 112) Cyclade, .i. ueste, wimple. a1100 Gloss. in Wr.-W lcker 107/37 Ricinum, winpel uel orl. Ibid. 125/8 Anabola, winpel. c1200 Trin. Coll. Hom. 163 Hire winpel wit o er maked eleu mid saffran. c1240 Ancr. R. 420 (MS. C), Sum sei t hit limpe to ene wummon cundeliche forte were wimpel. c1250 Meid. Maregrete xlvii, oru e mitte of ih christ, wid her wempel ho hin bond. 1297 R. GLOUC. (Rolls) 6941 Hire bodi wi
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transf. 1615 CROOKE Body of Man 123 A certaine smooth and slippery veyle or wimple is substrated. 1861 A. AUSTIN in Temple Bar III. 472 Graves are the sheltering wimples Against Life’s rain.
2. A flag, streamer. [An alien sense.]
1656 BLOUNT Glossogr., Wimple..a Streamer or Flag.
II. 3. A fold or wrinkle; a turn, winding, or twist; a ripple or rippling in a stream.
1513 DOUGLAS neis II. iv. 30 Bot thai about him
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1818 HOGG Brownie of Bodsbeck xii. I. 225 A shepherd..hates the wimples, as he calls them, of a turnpike. Ibid. xiv. II. 22 He had as mony links an’ wimples in his tail as an eel. 1845 ELIZA COOK Waters i, Waters, bright Waters,..your wimple just lulleth the minnow to sleep! 1878 STEVENSON Will o’ Mill, Parson’s Marj., The river ran between the stepping-stones with a pretty wimple.
4. A crafty turn or twist; a wile. Sc.
1638 SIR A. JOHNSTON Diary (S.H.S.) 320 Notwithstanding al wyles,
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Hence wimple-less a., not wearing a wimple.
a1225 Ancr. R. 420 if e muwen beon wimpel-leas, beo bi warme keppen.
Ventail
[a. OF. ventaille, -taile, ventalle (mod.F. ventail masc., = OProv. ventalha, It. ventaglia), f. vent wind, air. Hence also MHG. vin-, finteile, vintale. A purely English variant is AVENTAIL.
As the sense of breathing-place appears to be inapplicable to the earliest use of the
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1. A piece of armour protecting the neck, upon which the helmet fitted; a neck-piece. Obs.
a1330 Roland & V. 863 His ventail he gan vn-lace & smot of his heued in e place. 13.. Guy Warw. (A.)
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a1400 Sqr. lowe Degre 222 Your basenette shall be burnysshed bryght, Your ventall shalbe well dyght, With starres of gold it shall be set.
2. The lower movable part of the front of a helmet, as distinct from the vizor; latterly, the whole movable part including the vizor.
c1400 Destr. Troy 7030
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b. One of the vents or air-holes of this. Obs. 1
1470-85 MALORY Arthur X. lx. 516 The blood brast oute at the ventayls of his helme.
3. Something acting as a sail or fan. Obs.
a1529 SKELTON Col. Cloute 400 [The nuns] Must cast vp theyr blacke vayles, And set vp theyr fucke sayles, To catch wynde with their ventales.
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Antiq.
[a. F. salade, ad. Sp. celada or It. celata, believed to represent L. c l ta (sc. cassis or galea), (a helmet) ornamented with engraving. Cf. MDu. salade, sallade, salla.
The L. adj. has not been found in this elliptical use. Cf. loric gale que aene , c lat opere Corinthio (Cicero).]
1. In medi val armour, a light globular headpiece, either with or without a vizor, and without a crest, the lower part curving outwards behind.
c1440 Eng. Conq. Irel. iv. 11 (MS. Rawl.), Ham-Selfe wel wepenyd with haubergeons, and bryght Salletis and sheldys. 1465 MARG. PASTON in P. Lett. II. 189 Imprimis, a peyr brygandyrs, a salet, a boresper [etc.]. 1480 CAXTON
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b. jocularly referred to as a measure for wine.
1600 HEYWOOD 1st Pt. Edw. IV (1613) Cj, Make a proclamation..That..Sacke be sold by the Sallet.
c. transf. Headpiece, head. nonce-use.
1652 C. B. STAPYLTON Herodian 56 When Wine was got into his drunken Sallat.
2. Some kind of iron vessel. Obs.
1472-3 Rolls of Parlt. VI. 51/2 With fyere brought with theym in a Salette thider. 1507-8 Acc. Ld. High Treas. Scot. IV. 101 Item, for ane sellat to mak gwn powdir vijs. 1582 J. HESTER Secr. Phiorav. III. cxvi. 141 Sette the same potte in a Sallette of Iron, and lute them close together.
Hence saletted a., wearing a sallet.
1455 Coventry Leet Bk. (E.E.T.S.) 282
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Armet
[a. F. armet, also in OF. armette, dim. of arme.]
A kind of helmet introduced about the middle of the 15th century, in place of the basinet. It consisted of a globular iron cap, spreading out with a large hollowed projection over the back of the neck, and protected in front by the visor, beaver, and gorget. (Boutell.)
1507 Justes May & June 87 in Hazl. E.P.P. II. 124 They spared not cors, armyt, nor yet vambrace. 1577 HOLINSHED Chron. III. 853/1 Foure headpieces called armites. 1795 SOUTHEY Joan of Arc Wks.
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Burganet
Obs. exc. Hist.
Also 6 burguenet, (burgant), 6-7 burgenet, 6-9 burganet, 9 bourginot, -goinette. [ad. OF. bourguignotte, app. f. Bourgogne Burgundy.]
a. A very light casque, or steel cap, for the use of the infantry, especially pikemen. b. A helmet with a visor, so fitted to the gorget or neck-piece, that the head could be turned without exposing the neck.
[1598 BARRET Theor. Warres Gloss. 249 Burgonet, a French word, is a certaine kind of head-peece, either for foote or horsemen, couering the head, and part of the face and cheeke.]
1563-87 FOXE A. & M. (1596)
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fig. 1606 SHAKES. Ant.
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Morion
Armour. Now hist.
[< Middle French morion light helmet (1542) and its etymon Spanish morri n (1605; 1570 in form murr n), prob. < morra crown of the head (perh. ult. < the same Romance base as MORAINE n. and the first element of MORFOUND v.). Cf. Italian morione (1559), Portuguese morri o (1619), both prob. from Spanish.
With the 16th-cent. form morlion cf. Dutch morlioen, morlion (see MORILLION n.).
With sense 2 cf. French morion punishment inflicted on soldiers (1605), so called in allusion to the hat suspended at the end of the shaft of the halberd which held the soldier while the punishment was inflicted. In French the word appears to have been in military rather than naval use, and to have denoted a number of blows with a pikestaff or the butt of a musket.]
1. A kind of brimmed helmet resembling a hat, without a beaver or visor, worn
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Certain varieties are sometimes distinguished (esp. by modern historians) according to shape, as comb (also cockscomb) morion, Spanish (also pear-shaped) morion, etc.
1547 Inventory Possessions Henry VIII in Archaeologia (1888) 51 272 Itm mliiijxx ix white Murrions. 1557 Act 4 & 5 Philip & Mary c. 2 2 One Murrien or Sallet,..and one Steele Cappe or Sculle. 1563 in Lancs. & Cheshire Wills (1857) I. 141 A shirt of mayle wth the hed peace or murren thereunto belonginge. 1590 Inventory Sir T. Ramsey in Archaeologia (1866) 40 331 Itm. xvij Spanish morrians at 2s. 6d. per pece. Itm. x come morrians at 16d. 1592 C’TESS OF PEMBROKE tr.
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1626 J. SMITH Accidence Young Sea-men 4 The Marshall is..to see Iustice executed according to directions, as..setting in the bilbowes, and to pay the Cobty or the Morryoune.
Cabasset
Obs. rare.
[Fr.; dim. of cabas basket, panier, etc.]
A kind of small helmet.
1622 PEACHAM Compl. Gentl. III. (1634) 150 Keyes, lockes, buckles, cabassets or morians, helmets and the like. 1874 BOUTELL Arms & Arm. ix. 162.
Cointise
arch.
[a ME. (= the OF.) form of QUAINTISE, quaint device, ingenious ornament , appropriated to a special sense by modern writers on ancient costume, historical novelists, etc. (Some Dicts. have an erroneous form cointoise.)]
An elegant or fanciful dress, symbolical
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1834 J. R. PLANCH Brit. Costume 93 This latter is called a quintis or cointise, a name given to a peculiarly fashioned gown or tunic of that day. Ibid. 94 The scarf afterwards worn round the crest of the helmet was called a cointise. 1843 JAMES Forest Days (1847) 181 The beautiful scarfs, called cointises, then lately introduced.
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